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Socoder -> Off Topic -> Jay's Adventures in 3D Printing |
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| Wed, 21 Feb 2018, 04:03 | |
Jayenkai
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Greenie's having more luck than I am.. > Reveal 🔎 -=-=- ''Load, Next List!'' 
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| Wed, 21 Feb 2018, 06:04 | |
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TomToad |
If I were to guess, I'd say that the z axis home sensor switch is set too high (or too low depending on whether the bed, or the nozzle moves on the z axis).
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| Wed, 21 Feb 2018, 06:27 | |
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Jayenkai
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Attempts number 33 to 78 were roughly the same. It's starting up in the corner, lifting and moving to the "start point", but along the way it's extruding a tiny splodge on the tip of the head. Once it "plops down" at the start point, the splodge dislodges and lands on the mat. The head then moves around, seemingly printing well, until it returns to where splodge is, at which point the splodge becomes entangled, and everything becomes a mass of plastic goop. -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Wed, 21 Feb 2018, 06:49 | |
spinal
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Too hot perhaps?
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| Wed, 21 Feb 2018, 07:38 | |
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TomToad |
What you need is to lay down a skirt, a thin line of plastic that surrounds your print. This gets the plastic flowing. There should be a setting in your slicer to turn this on. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/
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| Wed, 21 Feb 2018, 07:45 | |
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Jayenkai
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Will do that in future, but this is still the test print that came with the bloody thing., surely it should be able to print that?!??
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| Wed, 21 Feb 2018, 13:13 | |
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Jayenkai
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Hmm.. Starting to think it might be a clog, or something.. https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/filament-sticks-nozzle Has anyone noticed that buying tech from Amazon, nowadays, doesn't always ensure it's a brand new piece of kit..? -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 04:43 | |
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Krakatomato |
What makes you think it's not brand new? It's unlikely a clog (unless it's not coming out at all now). These extruders will always let filament ooze out - it's normal. The problem is that there's then a "string" of filament in the nozzle that's pretty thin. This is where you set up your print so that it uses something called a "skirt". When using a skirt, the slicer will get the printer to produce an "outline" around the part. I tend to get it to do this 3 times - thus removing the string from the nozzle and having the perfect setup for when it moves to print the main part. There's also "brims" and "rafts" but I'd suggest you read up on those. If you're printing a small part, then use some prittstick around the area your print will sit. Then let it get on with the job in hand - should come out fine.
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 04:54 | |
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Jayenkai
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Yeah, I'm going to try my SoCoder ball, today. Figured I've attempted to print the "It's oh so easy!" OK.gcode that came with it. Socoder ball has a nice big skirt on it, so hopefully the thing will be able to do what it's supposed to. .. That's the plan for today, anyway.. An hour of actual gamedev Coding, first, though. ... Focus, Jay!! Incidentally, my little Acrylic Paints set turned up, today. But I've nothing to paint, yet  Oh, and I got this month's Creation Crate, too. Busy day! -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 06:21 | |
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Jayenkai
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Still getting that left/right imbalance. I’ve tried following this, and screwing the thread until they're aligned, but the second I hit "home XYZ" the left thread moving starts before the right one, and it ALWAYS results in the exact same 0.5mm difference between the two sides, no matter what I try. Very baffling... -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 06:52 | |
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Krakatomato |
You need to make sure you tighten the hex-nuts inside those height changing screw thingumies. Then they can't move.
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 08:23 | |
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Jayenkai
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See, I bloody knew it wasn’t as easy as that video showed. The lying git!!!
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 12:47 | |
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Jayenkai
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Aaaaaah!!!! Thanks, Krakatomato!! Ok, with the Hexnut tweaking and a bit of luck, I finally got the thing balanced properly. Next issue, the print isn’t sticking to the glass, and I’ve no pritt-stick at hand.. .. time to improvise. I grabbed the secondary Black Mat, and strapped it to the top of the now towering pile of bed. This probably wasn’t a good idea, but it was at least enough for me to see this. View on YouTube But at only 8%, it struggled to hold on much longer, and ... pop..  Still, this is infinitely more of a print than it's managed so far. I can now either... A) Bump up the bed temperature, which I’m slightly frightened to do!! Or B ) Get glue... Approximate how much of a pritt'ing does it normally take? -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 13:05 | |
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Krakatomato |
Ok, back to the glass. You really shouldn't need it - yet! If you want to use the glass then you need to expose the metal base and put the glass directly onto that. I think it's probably best to work out why the extruder isn't touching the base. I'm guessing that the z-switch is on the higher position and needs moving down. Daughters b'day today so not got much time but will take a look at my printer and the settings tomorrow to help you out more 
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| Thu, 22 Feb 2018, 13:19 | |
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Jayenkai
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Nope, that was one of the earliest things I checked, and it's already on the lower of the two holes. People seem to be printing little holders, to hold the thing at a lower position, which seems ideal.. .. Except that I can’t print them!!! But, yeah, this is definite progress today. Happy birthday to your daughter! Have a good day, and spend oodles of time with her. Tell her she shares her birthday with a crazy bloke! -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Fri, 23 Feb 2018, 13:31 | |
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Jayenkai
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 Removed the topmost "black mat 2†later, and went back down to the glass. Upped the bed temperature, and scribbled some PrittStick onto the glass. The print managed 100%, tonight, and is fairly decent. I have a feeling I might have upped the bed a teensy bit too much, as the bottom half of the print seems a little squished. But.. this is the best I’ve managed, thus far! I’m quite happy with today's result!!! -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Fri, 23 Feb 2018, 13:41 | |
cyangames
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Woo nicely done!
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| Fri, 23 Feb 2018, 16:10 | |
rockford
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Progress 
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| Sat, 24 Feb 2018, 05:05 | |
spinal
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Cool, what sort of size is that? ping pong ball maybe?
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| Sat, 24 Feb 2018, 06:49 | |
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Jayenkai
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Nah, until I’m happy with the way it’s working, I’m sticking with small tests. It's roughly the same diameter as a 1p coin.
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| Sun, 25 Feb 2018, 11:58 | |
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Jayenkai
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Rejigged the four corners and managed to get things a little flatter. Oddly, the extruder seems to be getting lower and lower, each time I do this. It's now at the point where I could probably remove the glass completely, but since my only (thus far) successful print has been WITH the glass, I'm opting to continue in this method. I might even end up moving the extrude's Z-stop UP to the higher hole.. Never thought I'd be considering doing that, a few days ago!! Anyhoo, I'm reprinting SoCoder Ball at a slightly larger size. This time it's a 42mm ball, rather than the (IIRC) 32mm that it was previously. This is oodles more complexity for it, and has increased the print time from about 50 minutes, to an hour and a half.. As I type this, it's up to 6%, and ... It's looking very flat.. .. Hmmm.. Still, I'm learning. Bit by bit. Once this has finished, assuming it looks OK, I'm going to attempt to print something a bit more complex than a ball!! 28% - socoder.net/uploads/1/Image-25-02-18-12-39-54-352.jpg -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Sun, 25 Feb 2018, 13:28 | |
Dabz
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I don’t know how you do it mind... but reading the thread... I honestly couldn’t be arsed... And would probably opt for a vice, chock of wood and a few chisels! Hats off like!  Dabz -=-=- Intel Core i5 6400 2.7GHz, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 (8GB), 8Gig DDR4 RAM, 256GB SSD, 1TB HDD, Windows 10 64bit
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| Sun, 25 Feb 2018, 14:02 | |
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GfK |
Yeah I'd have chucked the bloody lot of it down the drive by now.
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| Sun, 25 Feb 2018, 14:19 | |
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Jayenkai
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75% The Slicer software estimated about 1hr 50. ... looking at the time it’s taken between my posts.. it LIES!!!! -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Sun, 25 Feb 2018, 15:39 | |
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Jayenkai
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Took approximately 4 hours to print, in total. Compared in size to the smaller ball I printed a couple of days ago, it's really quite large!   The ball's quite nice, but isn’t as perfect as I’d like. Shape wise, today’s tweaks have made for a much more spherical ball, but the thin bits of the print are obviously a bit smushed. The really thin joint between the o and the C has kinda melted into itself as it printed, so most of the joint is actually missing. That’s a bit of a shame. Also, the overall texture of the outer shell is a little.. um.. not smooth, and rather thin. I imagine, though, that if I printed on the higher quality setting, that might be one of the things that prints a little better. In addition, there's a tiny hole at the top of the print. That’s a shame. :/ But, otherwise, it's turned out nicely, and realistically it's about what I expected from it. Adding a layer of paint may or may not result in better or worse results. I guess that’s the next thing I need to try. I haven’t done model painting for a long long (long!) time.. -=-=- ''Load, Next List!''
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| Sun, 25 Feb 2018, 16:06 | |
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Krakatomato |
You'll get to learn that there's lots of settings you can fiddle with to improve the quality of the prints. As I mentioned previously, I'd also highly recommend you do this dead easy mod: 3dprinterwiki.info/duplicatori3/cooling-mods/ It makes a huge difference. If nothing else, it's a stop gap until you print your own fan enclosure that provides better airflow around the whole of the extruder. Also, look at the amount of "Infill" you have set up. In general, you can have it as low as 10% (or even 5%). For stronger things, up it as required. Obviously, going to 100% is for very special cases. The "lines" you see are normal and will improve (slightly) with a finer print quality. However, it's not always that much better and most people tend to do finishing work at the end rather than faff with print settings. If the top is a little thin (or has holes) then you can increase the number of top layers the slicer will setup for printing. Same for the bottom layer. You can also control how thick walls are. The following is more aimed at the Simplify3D software but is a good general reference and translates pretty well to Cura: www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
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