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Socoder -> Off Topic -> Jay's Adventures in 3D Printing

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Posted : Sunday, 25 February 2018, 15:39
Jayenkai
Took approximately 4 hours to print, in total.

Compared in size to the smaller ball I printed a couple of days ago, it's really quite large!





The ball's quite nice, but isn’t as perfect as I’d like.
Shape wise, today’s tweaks have made for a much more spherical ball, but the thin bits of the print are obviously a bit smushed.
The really thin joint between the o and the C has kinda melted into itself as it printed, so most of the joint is actually missing. That’s a bit of a shame.
Also, the overall texture of the outer shell is a little.. um.. not smooth, and rather thin.
I imagine, though, that if I printed on the higher quality setting, that might be one of the things that prints a little better.

In addition, there's a tiny hole at the top of the print. That’s a shame. :/

But, otherwise, it's turned out nicely, and realistically it's about what I expected from it.

Adding a layer of paint may or may not result in better or worse results. I guess that’s the next thing I need to try. I haven’t done model painting for a long long (long!) time..

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Posted : Sunday, 25 February 2018, 16:06
Krakatomato
You'll get to learn that there's lots of settings you can fiddle with to improve the quality of the prints.

As I mentioned previously, I'd also highly recommend you do this dead easy mod:

3dprinterwiki.info/duplicatori3/cooling-mods/

It makes a huge difference. If nothing else, it's a stop gap until you print your own fan enclosure that provides better airflow around the whole of the extruder.

Also, look at the amount of "Infill" you have set up. In general, you can have it as low as 10% (or even 5%). For stronger things, up it as required. Obviously, going to 100% is for very special cases.

The "lines" you see are normal and will improve (slightly) with a finer print quality. However, it's not always that much better and most people tend to do finishing work at the end rather than faff with print settings.

If the top is a little thin (or has holes) then you can increase the number of top layers the slicer will setup for printing. Same for the bottom layer. You can also control how thick walls are.

The following is more aimed at the Simplify3D software but is a good general reference and translates pretty well to Cura: www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
Posted : Sunday, 25 February 2018, 16:10
Jayenkai
Lots to learn.
A week later, and the adventure's only just beginning!

Thanks for all the help, this week, and not getting sick of my general uselessness

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Posted : Monday, 26 February 2018, 03:18
TomToad
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
Two invaluable sites for troubleshooting printing problems
Posted : Monday, 26 February 2018, 10:35
Jayenkai


Moving ahead, I'm going to need some kind of tool to convert images to 3D fanciness.

This kinda thing would be nice..
Mmm..


Going to have to code an exporter, though.

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Posted : Tuesday, 27 February 2018, 01:41
TomToad
Going to have to code an exporter, though.


B3D exporter. http://www.mojolabs.nz/codearcs.php?code=3271
Shouldn't be too hard to port to other languages.
Posted : Tuesday, 27 February 2018, 01:53
Jayenkai
Aiming for STL format.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)

.. and kinda looking forward to the challenge of figuring that all out

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Posted : Tuesday, 27 February 2018, 01:56
Krakatomato
I found it far more fun to do this sort of thing in MagicaVoxel (ephtracy.github.io/ and then export my design to .obj format. That .obj can be dropped straight into most slicer programs

You should also look into MeshMixer (free) as you'll no doubt find that very useful at some point.
Posted : Tuesday, 27 February 2018, 01:58
Jayenkai
Bah, humbug!
This is a CODING challenge
Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 12:21
Jayenkai
Have begun printing the Stargate. Progress shots will be posted as it grows..

Reduced it in size to 10Cm, rather than the intended 19.5Cm. I know that'll reduce the detail, and probably fuck up the little glyphs, but it also reduced the estimated print time from 20 hours, down to 4.5

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Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 13:53
Jayenkai
2 hours later - 14%
The bottom "removable base" is done, and the main body's "waffle texture interior" has begun.



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Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 14:13
therevillsgames
Jay is creating WAFFLES!!!
Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 14:16
Jayenkai
Reminds me of those lovely Pink Panther Wafers you used to get...
... do they still make those?
Nom nom nom...
30%. Still looks waffley.

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Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 14:38
Jayenkai
40%
The waffle donut has some icing.


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Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 15:26
Jayenkai
75%
The glyphs aren’t as clean as they could be, but I expect that’s due to it printing at half the size.
Still, nice so far!!



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Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 15:48
Jayenkai
Getting close to the end, now. 85%



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Posted : Wednesday, 28 February 2018, 16:36
Jayenkai
Took about 5.5 hours, in total.
Lovely!!!





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Posted : Thursday, 01 March 2018, 02:23
rockford
Still looks good, despite the glyphs. Are you pleased with the end result?
Posted : Thursday, 01 March 2018, 04:37
Jayenkai
Aye, it's come out lovely!
Now, how to improve it.

If I try painting it with the acrylic paints, the glyphs will completely vanish under the thickness of the paint.
Alternative options.
Spray paint would be thinner, but I expect even that would need a couple of coats.
A different plastic material could work, too. But for "Stone effect" filament, you’re looking at over £30. .. for a single Stargate print, that seems a bit silly!!

So.. unsure.

Still, looks great

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Posted : Thursday, 01 March 2018, 05:50
rockford
Can you not use a tool (knife/needle) to scrape the glyphs to make them a bit deeper/clearer?
Posted : Thursday, 01 March 2018, 06:02
Jayenkai
I think it's the low resolution that most damaged the glyphs, since they were thin to begin with, and I've printed it at half the intended size. (supposed to be 195mm, but I printed at 100mm)
That, plus the lower resolution of "Normal print" vs "Fine print", and those little thin bits didn't stand a chance!!

.. and I'm not sure if my fingers are steady enough to dare carving into it!!!

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Posted : Thursday, 01 March 2018, 06:25
GfK
You need one of those Dremel multitool things. I have this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-4000-1-45-Corded-Multitool/dp/B0033UWLXI/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519910690&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dremel+4000&psc=1

The flex-shaft is awesome as it means you don't have to hold the weight of the entire thing.
Posted : Thursday, 01 March 2018, 06:29
Jayenkai
We've got a Dremel, somewhere... Bought it when Mum was removing the wall-panelling from her bedroom, and couldn't manage to dig out all the giant nails in the wall. We bought that, and she went around the room slicing all the head off the buggers!

I imagine the print is a little too brittle for that, though.

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Posted : Thursday, 01 March 2018, 06:36
GfK
Don't think I've ever seen/held anything that's been 3D printed so I dunno. But the reason I got that one is that it has variable speed - from a leisurely 5,000 up to 30,000rpm, IIRC.

Just discovered by Googling that Dremel make a 3D printer now. Who knew?!
Posted : Monday, 19 March 2018, 08:01
spinal
Hows the printing going? Still testing things?
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